This story has been republished from our friends at Hodinkee Australia.
Table of Contents
What We Know
Under the stewardship of CEO Davide Cerrato, we’ve seen a revitalised Bremont experiment with all sorts of things—jumping hours pieces, meteorite dials, space watches—as well as ceramic cases, especially for its Supermarine dive watch. In 2024, they launched their first full-ceramic watch, the Supermarine 500 Black Ceramic, following up with a Jungle Green ceramic limited edition built to take on the tropics. Now, the British brand has debuted a Deep Blue ceramic Supermarine 500 that’s ready for the depths.
While this new colored ceramic Supermarine is a follow-up to the Jungle Green, quite a lot has changed in the Supermarine lineup since its launch, including an upgraded movement with an improved power reserve. It also now sports a wave pattern on the dial rendered in black, which provides good contrast against the white Super-LumiNova (with blue emission), and brings some added texture and depth to the dial.
The blue ceramic case measures the same dimensions as the rest of the Supermarine 500 lineup at 43mm across with a thickness of 13mm. It’s rated to 500 meters and also features a helium escape valve on the left side of the case that’s finished in a color-matched blue. The bezel insert is ceramic – it’s laser-engraved with embossed numerals – yet both the bezel ring and the crown are titanium, not that you’d immediately clock it. Bremont has nailed the color-matching across the ceramic and titanium components, and at a glance you wouldn’t know the materials were different.
Inside is a titanium inner case protecting the Bremont BB64AH calibre from magnetism. This Sellita SW300-based movement is also found in the current Supermarine 500 Full Ceramic limited edition with a polar dial, but not in the standard-production black dial model, which still features the Bremont BE-92AV (which is also SW300- or ETA 2892-based). This new calibre boasts an improved 56-hour power reserve and has been upgraded with a suite of accuracy and durability advancements, including an antimagnetic Glucydur balance wheel, an Anachron balance spring to insulate the escapement from temperature fluctuations, and a highly durable and anti-magnetic Nivaflex mainspring.
The Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue is limited to 250 pieces and is available on either a black and blue NATO strap, black rubber strap or a blue hybrid leather and rubber strap, with all three strap options priced at £6,450.00 (USD ~$7,220).
What We Think
A lot has changed in the three years since Davide Cerrato took over Bremont, primarily the streamlining of the watch lines into the Terra Nova (land), Altitude (sky), Supernova (space) and Supermarine (sea). It’s also involved retiring the Trip-Tick case on the Supermarine 300 and 500, which—along with the chapter closing on the Bremont propeller logo—has led to some labelling these changes as the brand discarding its heritage (or, at least, its origins, considering how young the brand still is).
I’d counter that line of thinking with the perspective that Bremont needed to evolve as tastes change and expectations for watches at this price range evolve, and with this new direction, the Supermarine has carved out an impressive lineup of original designs that still conform to the traditional dive watch format. The Supermarine 500, being Bremont’s most capable diver, is the perfect place for the brand to experiment with material innovation—especially ceramic, due to its inherent lightweight and scratch-resistant properties. Combining the titanium inner case, crown and bezel with the ceramic outer case means the watch head weighs just 74 grams.
While the black wave dial isn’t new to the Supermarine 500, this is the first time it’s appeared in a ceramic case, and the mixture of technical materials with the patterned dial complements each other nicely. The Deep Blue ceramic case has a combination of sandblasted and brushed finishes, which help the watch feel premium, while the titanium bezel and crown are a clever material choice to keep weight down and protect the most knock-prone parts of the watch from one of the downsides of ceramic: its propensity to shatter.
Bremont knows a ceramic diver isn’t going to be everyone’s cup of tea, yet they also know the technical benefits of the material speak for themselves, so expanding the lineup with different ceramic colors is a great way to broaden appeal and bring new customers into the world of Bremont.
The Basics
Brand: Bremont
Model: Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue
Reference Number: SM43-DT-BLCER-BK
Diameter: 43mm
Thickness: 13mm
Lug-to-Lug: 50mm
Case Material: Dark blue ceramic, titanium bezel and crown
Dial: Black with 3D wave pattern
Lume: Yes, Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 500 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Black rubber strap, black and blue NATO strap or blue embossed rubber and leather strap with quick-release
The Movement
Calibre: Bremont BB64AH, Sellita SW300 base
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Power Reserve: 56 hours
Winding: Automatic
Chronometer Certified: No
Frequency: 28,800 VpH (4Hz)
Jewels: 25
Pricing & Availability
Price: £6,450.00 (USD ~$7,220)
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: Yes, 250 pieces total
For more, click here.