Earlier this year, we covered the announcement of a novel idea from the minds at Vacheron Constantin and the Phillips auction house: an open call looking for the best vintage Vacheron Constantin watches in the world for display, appreciation, and eventually the potential to be crowned the best in its category. It was a Concours D’Élégance like any held for cars, except this time for Vacheron timepieces. The underlying raison d’être was not just to show the best of vintage Vacheron but also to show support and appreciation to the collectors who have carried the passion for the brand (and maybe to draw some watches out of hiding).
A platinum ref. 6448 from 1962 with JMV RA 13-ligne ultra-thin hand-wound movement (left) and a ref. 30030 from 2006.
The jury (all fourteen members) reviewed 550 entries from vintage collectors worldwide. Now we know the 34 finalists in the seven categories (chronographs, Métiers d’Art, Chronomètre Royal, astronomical complications, multiple complications, design, and chiming mechanisms), and there are some truly phenomenal pieces, including some that I did not know existed. And for those in Geneva during the lead-up to GPHG and the fall auction season, you can see the watches on display from November 4th to 8th before the winners in each category—plus a potential “Best in Show”—are announced at a ceremony on November 10th.
The legendary retrograde full date and ‘Don Pancho’ minute repeater from 1940, with a replacement dial faithful to the original (without radium). The watch has a bespoke movement.
A rose gold ref. 4764 in pink gold from 1954, with a restored dial.
A “Mercator” with miniature painted dial from from 2002.
The watches were inspected by Vacheron’s heritage department to verify the authenticity, eligibility, documentation, or certification of each piece. Sitting on the jury are industry experts like Dr. Helmut Crott, Aurel Bacs, Alex Ghotbi, Auro Montanari, Jiaxian Su (better known as SJX), Roberta Naas, and a guy—it says here—named Ben Clymer, among a number of others. Felix Baumgartner of Urwerk was also a surprising inclusion, especially since his watches are so futuristic by comparison. I’m sure his technical mind was much appreciated. But while the jury deserves recognition, the focus is on the watches. We won’t share them all, but you’ve already seen a few of my personal favorites in the story.
A ref. 4072 from 1940 in steel with a telemeter dial and a ref. 4083 from the same year in rose gold.
A Türler-signed ref. 6167 Chronomètre Royal with Gay Frères bracelet from 1957.
A skeletonized perpetual calendar ref. 43033 with an unusual hexadecagonal yellow gold case, made in 1987.
Among those watches are two vintage refs. 4764 “Cioccolatone” triple calendars, one in rose gold and one in a stunning platinum case that was last seen in 2022 at a Sotheby’s auction, where it sold for over CHF 600,000. For the jury, this presents an interesting question of comparing overall restored condition versus rarity and originality. Another standout is the vintage ref. 6213 world time with central seconds, which lacks original hands and might be the one not seen since 1991. There is a beautiful ref. 6448 minute repeater with diamond indices, some stunning enamel work, a ref. 4072 with a telemeter dial, and—yes—the return of the famous Don Pancho. Who will come out on top? I honestly don’t know, but we’ll find out November 10.
For more on the Vacheron Constantin Concours D’Élégance Horlogère visit this website.